2023 Spring Ski Mountaineering Course Recap
Park Glacier
Glaciated Ski Mountaineering Course 2023
Day 1: On the drive up to the mountain, the snow banks were noticeably smaller, the rivers were higher, and there was more rock exposed on the peaks than the last time I had been up this way. Our team of five put the finishing touches on our towering overnight ski packs, and set out for the next five days. Of the four students, three had taken avalanche courses with me in the past, one was a part of the mentorship program, and one person was brand new to working with me.
Before setting off on any big adventure, I like to bring people together and discuss everyone’s reasons for being there. I could tell we were all going to get along great when everyone’s goals revolved around learning, being present, and just appreciating the experience for the experience itself. One student was particularly excited about sunrises and sunsets, another was enthused about exploring a more remote area by way of a familiar zone.
We performed a thorough beacon check, and began gliding uphill for our first ascent. Prior to the course start date, everyone received an email with a thorough tour plan, complete with mileage breakdown, vertical gain/loss, and a rough time estimate. The itinerary for our first day was BIG. It wound up being 11.5 hours, 9 miles, 3,800’ gain, and 1,400’ loss by the time we reached our final campsite on Hamburger Rock. Travel was mostly low angle uphill skinning, three short hot pow ski runs, and one final bootpack where one would occasionally punch through into unconsolidated wet snow. The bootpack was a bit type 2 fun, but I’d say, all in all, our route was smooth and we were only limited by group walking speed.
There were campsite options closer than Hamburger Rock that we discussed as a group, but the consensus was that people would rather be as close to the Park Glacier as possible and did not want to move camp later on. So we pushed onwards, and built camp just before the sun dipped behind the ridgeline to our west.
Day 2: Sunshine poured into camp around 8:00 am. Our start time today was set to be 9:00am, so we had ample time to drink coffee in the sunshine, eat breakfast, and pack a day bag. On this day our goals were to cover the following:
Ice Axe Anatomy, Techniques, and Uses
Booting Techniques (Up/Down)
Self Arrest/Team Arrest
Roping up for glacier team travel
Glaciated Ski considerations
Glacier Navigation Strategies
Travel Considerations - rope (rope lengths, team configurations, experience and order, etc.) vs. no rope
Low visibility techniques: Using the rope, Using our tracks, Using the map/tools
Snow Anchors (Ski T, H, I, body snow belays, axe, Other)
Knots Review
Mechanical Advantage
We covered all this class content on the hill behind our camp, and kept it close to the tents when weather started to move in. By the afternoon, we were engulfed in a cloud.
Day 3: It rained most of the night… a sure sign of spring. The snow surface had a minimal eggshell layer of refreeze and everything below it was soaked. On the upside, making water from snow was nearly effortless. It practically was making itself! As we were beginning our day with a review of Mechanical Advantage, the sun broke through and painted the surrounding mountains in large strokes of gold and shadow. It felt like an opportunity to get out and ski — so we quickly packed up our day packs, donned our glacier kits, and skied onto the Mazama Glacier.
As a guide pursuing an objective that has the option for rather steep skiing with new group of skiers, it is important to observe people’s movement on a similarly steep slope in semi-firm conditions. For this specific course, I knew three of the skiers pretty well but had not seen two of them ski steeps. So we seized the opportunity to explore the Bastille ridge, get some views, establish a culture for how we travel on glaciers together, and get some turns on a few steeper headwalls.
The course itinerary and goals for the day were as follows:
Assess movement ability and ski a 45-50 degree slope
Crevasse Rescue skills
Putting it all together
Hyperstatic Rope considerations
Roped and Unroped fall considerations
Team travel differences with Skis vs. Without
Rope Ascension
Team C
Practice
After a morning of some fun turns out of camp and skinning up to view the Roosevelt Glacier on the north side of Kulshan, we skied a few corn-like turns down a steep headwall, and then onwards down the Mazama Glacier in low light conditions. We experienced a bit of collective learning to navigate the changing texture of the warming snow surface amidst some fairly large runnels.
Back at camp, we got hands on with crevasse rescue practice and put together all the pieces we had been adding to our toolbox the days prior. Weather was moody in the afternoon, brought us a bit of rain, and the clouds swirled in indecision.
After class, we hunkered in our tents for a few hours and made dinner. Soon enough, the sun decided to pay us another visit before going to bed for the night. Out of the clouds came a golden hour of sun. We all couldn’t help but smile.
In our evening discussion on Day 3, we went into depth about our strategy regarding recent warming, minimal refreezing, and a shift in our forecast for temperatures and sky cover. Due to the lack of overnight refreeze, we decided it would provide the safest, and most fun ski conditions if we were descending by sunrise at 6:30am. We also decided to throw out our hopes of skiing the headwall, due to wet avalanche concerns, timing, and group ability. Our high point would be at the base of the headwall. We time planned for this new itinerary, and established our leave time would be at 2:00am.
Day 4: Park Glacier Climb & Ski
In the dark hour of 1:00am, three little tents at the foot of Kulshan’s NW face were aglow with sounds of boiling water, slurps of coffee, and a rustling of readiness. At 2:00am, we skied out of camp —the SE-facing turns were already pretty soft…
Once transitioned and moving up the NW face, the snow surface became a bit more cohesive and had a minimally refrozen semi-supportable surface crust. After about an hour of walking, we got slapped in the face by 30mph winds out of the West and a spattering of rain… peering in that direction, the skies were black and obscured. This was not forecasted. However uncertain it felt at that moment, I was confident this would burn off; but apprehensive to not force anything. I paused and checked in with the group. Everyone wanted to keep walking. With minimal visibility (10 ft. or so) I felt my way forwards, choosing a low angle for the skin track, and relying on my map, my previous experience with this glacier, and extensive route preparation. We crept upwards.
A few hours in, there was still no sign of the full moon. Visibility was poor at best, and darkness was heavy like a blanket over the visible world. Knowing we had the most crevassed terrain ahead, I decided to pull the rope out. Classically, within a half hour of leaving this break, the skies opened up and a brilliant fiery sun was rising behind the perfect triangle of Shuksan’s summit pyramid to our East. By now, we had hit our cruising speed with the rope on, and were close to our high point… so we left the rope attached.
The hour from first light to sunrise transcended the space of time. How is it that after hours of walking, the arrival of the sun’s glow can bring about a feeling of weightlessness? In the growing light, there existed an unspoken magic —a vow of silent appreciation, an expansiveness of existence, a moment so beautiful you can’t help but smile and breathe. A moment so beautiful, I couldn’t help but shed a tear. There are really no words to describe the feeling of climbing with the sun —to be high above the valley in the moment of a budding morning. When I speak of ‘thin places’, this is surely one.
At the prompt time of 6:30 am, we arrived at the base of the Park Headwall. When I turned around to announce our transition point, I couldn’t help but notice the collective awe amongst our crew. Wow is right! :)
We took our time ripping skins and stowing ski crampons, eating Scandinavian Swimmers and coffee-infused maple syrup shots, sipping on some snowmelt, and slathering on some sunscreen for the imminent rays. For the final few thousand feet, the snow had firmed up providing a supportable ski surface that would surely ski like corn. AMAZING!
Something I’ve made a habit of doing is finding ways to honor and show respect for the mountains where I play and work. A few years ago, I learned about the long-term carbon cycle, and how the shells at the mouths of the rivers are born of the bodies of mountains. The process struck a chord with me —something so simple, and yet so unacknowledged most of the time. The interconnectedness of everything is so much more than we choose to perceive in our Western lives. So in an effort to see the world more clearly, to honor the spirit of the mountain, and offer a gift of gratitude, I bring a shell and some words of appreciation to leave behind at my high point. In a way, I am bringing the mountain back to themselves. This is my way of trying to bring more reciprocity into my relationships with mountains.
In the growing dawn, we waited for the snow surface to soften to our preferred consistency and then began our long euphoric descent down the glaciated NW face of Kulshan’s volcanic body. We painted with our skis in ribbons riddled with delight, carving wide arcing turns at breezy speeds. The snow held it’s ‘zip’ all the way down to the base of our camp.
Our transition held a chorus of laughter and joyful disbelief. What an incredible day to be living! On our way up to camp, I stroked the snow surface with my ski pole —noticing the appetizing quality of the snow left in the shade. As I turned to glance behind, I glimpsed a growing smirk from one of the students. As we topped out our homey-Hamburger rock, I asked if anyone wanted to ski another lap below camp. Without a word, everyone started ripping skins.
How do these people find me? They’re just as crazy about skiing as I am! We all giggled as we soared down another 1500’ of amazing low angle corn-like snow!
Our final climb to camp presented a sort of stillness in my mind —like taking a snapshot of a moment you wish could last forever. Once back at camp, we all got to drying our skins, boot liners, and socks on drying lines made of glacier gear and skis. The afternoon lingered on a dreamlike sweltering haze as we all rested in the shade of our tents and munched on too many snacks. We were the embodiment of ‘alpine chill.’
Day 5: Egress and Course Close
Our final day was slated to be the warmest of all, with nighttime lows in the high 40s (F). Our exit route consisted of mostly low angle gliding —which would only really work if we could slide (warming snow turns mushy which increases friction and makes gliding more difficult). To give ourselves the best chances of a speedy exit, we decided to embark on our exit journey at 5:30 am (first light).
The sunrise on our final day was just as brilliant as the morning before. The sky burst into an array of orange and pink. Clouds masqueraded as bodies of water —hanging out in valley bottoms, accentuating the wavelike crests of ridgelines extending outwards into the expansive North Cascade range. The snow temperature held just enough cold snow all morning to allow us to glide all of our intended downhill travel sections with relative ease. Arriving in the parking lot, amidst the day trippers and dog walkers, was a bit of an abrupt shift from our week of snowy solitude.
At the end of an adventure, I like to ask myself what feels more potent: the excitement of getting back to my creature comforts, or the subtle longing to stay in the hills and never leave? On this trip, they felt equal. I was anticipating the glory of taking off my ski boots and was also feeling the weight of this being my last work for the season with Grounding Truth. What an incredible way to round it out, I almost wish these moments could hang in the air longer than they do.
Coconut water and chips tasted far too delicious as we reconfigured our gear and outfits. Then we headed out to the North Fork Brewery for some gluten free pizza, cider and debrief chatter. I’m so thankful for all the folks who decided to come be a part of this course, and I feel a debt of gratitude to Kulshan for opening the way for our skiing enjoyment and safe passage. Until next year!
