Moutaineering meets FastPacking Gear - UNPACKED
I wrote this blog for Aspire Adventure Running, where I also work as a guide. The information, however, can extend beyond an Aspire course, and be useful to anyone looking to dial in a fast & light kit for mountianeering.
*This article does not correllate specifically with any Grounding Truth offerings at this time.
Aspire Fast & Light Mountaineering Article
Aspire Fast Packing Gear Article
FastPacking pack contents are lighter than general backpacking or mountaineering, but attempt to tackle similar environmental exposure over the course of fewer days. Carrying less food and less bulk or weight, can allow one to move more freely, at a faster pace than one who is carrying an expedition style pack. All this said, the key to successful Fastpacking is to read the weather and conditions appropriately, and move fast-and-light when the time is ripe for it.
This blog is meant to be a resource for anyone preparing for an Aspire Fastpacking skills course. Due to the continuous dialing-in of gear for Fastpacking missions, and the endless trade-offs with comfort and conditions, these gear recommendations are not black and white. For Aspire participants, we will have a pre-trip briefing to fine-tune gear selections. Anytime you are planning to venture into the mountains, it is a good idea to consult with your team about a gear strategy once you have an idea of the route, the conditions, and the weather forecast.
Sleep System:
The word ‘system’ is key. Any sleeping bag, sleeping pad, or shelter you choose, does not stand alone. They all work together to either make or break your sleeping experience. With some ground conditions, such as snow, your pad and shelter may need to be the most robust, whereas your sleeping bag may toe the line of temperature rating. At other times, shelter may rule out as the thing that takes up the most space (due to rain or inclement weather). When the weather forecast is high and dry, you may be able to get away with the most minimal of all three, and this is when Fastpacking is at its most prime. The most important thing is to ensure that your sleeping bag, pad, and shelter work together and are adequate for the conditions you might encounter in the mountains.
Sleeping Bag -
How warm does it need to be? How packable?
Weather Considerations: In order to answer these questions, you should first consider what the nighttime low temperature will be for where you are going. A good way to check specific weather forecasts is to visit NOAA for the area to which you are traveling. Using the inset map on the lower right hand side of the page, you can pinpoint your proposed camp location (elevation is important) and allow the page to refresh with the forecasted weather for that zone.
Kulshan: Baker - Portals high camp weather
Weight vs. Warmth: Next you get to consider the trade-offs of having a warm night's rest and carrying a little extra weight, or opting for a slightly less comfortable slumber and having a lighter pack. **You’ll notice this is a trend with most light-and-fast style missions.**
For the North Cascades in the summer, in good weather, you can get away with a 30 degree bag most nights, and other times, you may wish you had the 0 degree. My personal approach has been to travel with a lightweight 10-15 degree water resistant down sleeping bag and ensure that I pack it inside of a waterproof stuff sack, and pair it with adequate ground insulation and shelter (more on this next). If the forecasted temperatures are lower than 25 or the winds are expected to exceed 10-15 mph, I will likely also bring a silk weight sleeping bag liner, to add a little warmth.
Sleeping pad -
R rating? Thickness? Closed or open cell? Inflatable or foam?
If cushion is really important to you, bring a lightweight inflatable or open cell pad (Exped makes some good options), but MAKE SURE there are no holes in your pad, that it holds air all night, and that you bring a durable ground cloth (must be puncture resistant) that is larger than the footprint of your pad!
Open Cell/Inflatable Pad
PRO: Cushion for the joints and back, lightweight, packable
CON: Easy to pop/not durable, tends to be colder, difficult to field repair in alpine environments
When going fast and light I choose not to bring an inflatable pad.
#1: Because I’ve had too many pop on me over the years.
#2: Without a high R-value or an additional closed cell foam pad, I get too cold.
And so in my calculation of trade-offs, I choose warmth over comfort and bring a lightweight foam pad.
Closed Cell Foam Pad
PRO: lightweight, insulating, durable, can also be used around camp/as a yoga mat, etc.
CON: bulky, not as comfortable
Ground cloth pro tip: Cut a section of Tyvek to size.
Shelter -
Tent? Bivy Sack? Tarp? None of the above?
Consider the forecast… Precipitation? Snow? Wind?
Consider the environment… Trees? Snow? Rocks? Ground Surface?
Consider the number of nights out… one or multiple?
TENT
PRO: solid shelter from rain/snow/wind, adaptable to any ground surface, spacious, comfortable, bug screen
CON: heavy, bulky
TARP
PRO: lightweight, packable, good shelter from precipitation, good airflow
CON: sometimes necessitates an additional ground tarp, does not fair well in high winds, must have trees or trekking poles and stakes, no bug screen
BIVY SACK
PRO: lightweight, packable, can be solid shelter (depending on the type)
CON: tends to promote condensation inside the bag, claustrophobic for long periods of time
For the Aspire Skills courses on Kulshan and Dakobed, we will be camping above Treeline, on rocky surfaces, for one night only, and there is potential for any kind of weather (likely no insects). A lightweight waterproof bivy sack is recommended.
Given that we only have one night out, if you get wet, it will be okay. *If going out for longer missions, consider how to keep your gear dry, or the efficacy of synthetic versus down sleeping bags.
What is your guide bringing? Rab Neutrino 600 10 F Sleeping bag, MEC Zotefoams Evazote 5mm Bivy Sleeping pad, Brooks Range Ultralite Mini Guide Tarp (doubles as a bivy sack and tarp)
Cooking System
Every year, the cook systems are getting smaller, lighter, and more efficient. Although, no stove is all three. If you want efficient boil times in cold temperatures or high winds, you trade off a little bit of packability and weight. Some backpacking stoves are exceptionally small and light, although they tend to consume A LOT of fuel when trying to cook in cold or inclement weather. (We won’t even touch on how altitude influences these stoves.)
For the alpine environment of the North Cascades, I’ve found the integrated stove systems to be a favorite amongst mountain guides and recreational climbers. The JetBoil MiniMo allows you to simmer, whereas, the MSR Windburner has faster boil times, remarkably so when the wind is howling or the temperatures are below freezing. If you are looking to boil water for food, and melt snow for water, the MSR Reactor is the most efficient, albeit a little heavier. The MSR Windburner is next up in efficiency, a little lighter, but is hard to cook with (unless you tend to it very actively). The JetBoil stoves boast some of the more packable options, and have the ‘simmer’ option, but take their time reaching a boiling point on cold mornings or windy nights.
My tried and true stove for the North Cascades is the MSR Windburner.
Fuel is another consideration and depends on the number of people, number of meals, water source, water purification strategy, and style of meal.
For this course, we will be making two just-add-water meals, 2-3 hot drinks per person, and will likely find a water source along our route. We will discuss fuel amounts as a team. Usually a small canister for 2 people for one to two nights is adequate.
Food/Fueling
Moving fast and light, the easiest way to cut weight is to trim down on food. But we are asking our bodies to do a lot, so we need to give them the fuel they need to function properly. There have been huge improvements in freeze-dried and dehydrated meals in the last few years, so get excited and go find a meal that you can get amped up about!
Dinner Favorites: Good To-Go Kale and White Bean Stew, Mushroom Risotto, Thai Curry. Backpacker’s Pantry Pad Thai (lots of calories), also feel free to dehydrate your own meal (just make sure you work out the logistics of using the stove and cleaning it out if you share).
Breakfast Go-To: Breakfast is an important meal in the mountains. I like to bring a small bowl, some dehydrated coconut milk, and some tasty granola with nuts, seeds, and dried fruit. Get creative! Oatmeal is also an easy option and can be eaten straight out of the packet.
Pro Tip: You can use your empty dehydrated dinner pouch as your breakfast bowl. (Just make sure you eat all the dinner first.)
If you’re a coffee drinker, pick up some instant brew. If you like cream, sometimes I pair a Via with a Trader Joe’s Instant coffee where the cream is included. Add hot cocoa mix and you’ve got a mocha!
Pro Tip: A 16 oz. Nalgene paired with a Coozie works great as a mug, and can also be used to dry your shoes!
Footwear
This may be the most important piece of personal equipment you bring on this trip. When we move in the mountains, our main connection to the terrain is through our feet. As we move into more technical terrain, we will increase our security of movement by using crampons and ice axes, but the bottom line is that our movement and our ground purchase is our primary source of security. Having the proper footwear for the task is paramount.
For Dakobed, we believe the conditions will be such that Trail Runners and Crampons (more on this later) will be adequate. Ensure your trail runners have plenty of life in their tread.
For Kulshan, we will be traveling extensively on glacier, pumice, and varied surface conditions, and so mountain boots will be required.
Mountain boots come in many different varieties, and for this course, a 3/4 shank mountain boot is recommended. This describes a boot where the toe has a bit of flex to it, whereas the arch and heel of the boot are rigid. The boot should have a heel welt, but likely no toe welt and a well defined lugged sole.
Clothing System
The ultimate gray area in many ways, is your clothing system, although for some things, it’s fairly black and white.
It’s up to you what you want to travel on-trail in. Bring your most stylin’ fastest mountain movement outfit for the approach and descent!
During the steep snow and glacier travel portions of the route, long sleeves that cover the elbows, gloves and pants are required to mitigate hazards associated with self or team arrests.
Lightweight softshell pants are recommended. My personal favorite are the Arc’teryx Sigma FL pants. Fast drying, wind resistant, breathable, and lightweight are good things to consider.
Mountain weather is ever-changing and so having an assortment of layers is key. Make sure your layers pair well together, and can be worn all at once if needed. For a single overnight, we recommend only bringing one of each item listed on the packing list (Except socks, bring a pair of socks for each full travel day). Synthetic fabrics will perform better than cotton.
Sun Protection
In the alpine, there is very little opportunity for shade and the sun comes at you from all directions as it reflects off the snow surface. Having proper sun protection is more than just for your comfort, it is a matter of safety.
Glacier Glasses -
This is the most important piece of Sun protection, please take time to find a pair that fits your face. Glacier glasses have a darker tint than normal sunglasses and protect your eyes from harmful rays that may reflect off of the snow surface from the underside or periphery of your lenses. They should fit snug against your face, have side shields, and you should not be able to see much light seeping through from outside the rim. Light from above is okay, as you will likely wear a sun hat that will help protect you from above.
Arriving without adequate glacier glasses could be a trip ender, as snow blindness is more easily prevented than managed in the field.
Buff/Neck Gaiter -
This versatile piece of gear can make a huge difference over the course of a full day in the mountains. It can help add extra warmth, protect from the sunburn that wants to happen under your chin, double as a headband or hat, and be used to make a pillow when it's time to bivy.
In addition to these items listed, sunblock and a sun hat are worth their weight. Bring a small bottle of sunscreen for your face and consider wearing light layers to protect other exposed skin.
ProTip: Stuff your rolled up puffy jacket or insulating layer into your buff as an on-the-go pillow.
Safety Equipment
As I mentioned before, as we travel into more technical terrain, we need to think about increasing our security. Many hazards exist when traveling on glaciers and in the mountains, most of which can be placed into one of three categories: falling off the mountain, the mountain falling on us, or falling into the mountain. By equipping ourselves with the proper tools (In addition to meticulous route planning, continual assessment of conditions, and mindful travel) we can help to mitigate our exposure to these hazards.
Ice Ax
Lightweight and functional is key. Ice axes come in many different shapes and forms, but for the purpose of fastpacking, we want something that will give us purchase as we climb, and in the case that we need to stop ourselves from falling off the mountain.
For general fastpacking, you will be fine with a 40-55 cm length ax with an adze.
You will be glad for a shorter shaft when you are moving many miles on trail with this strapped to your backpack, and the Adze is more versatile than the hammer for glacier purposes.
Some lightweight options: Hummingbird, Gully, LiteRIDE, Ride
A very versatile axe, not as light: Sum’Tec
I will likely bring one of these: Sum’Tec or Gully
Aluminum Crampons
Aluminum is lighter than steel. It is also less durable, but we will be mindful of only using crampons when the ground surface necessitates it. Crampons also provide much more stability and purchase on steep icy slopes than micro spikes do. These will help us from falling off the mountain.
Given the nature of the terrain for each of our routes planned for this Aspire season, having legitimate crampons is a requirement.
If you already own steel crampons, you may choose to use them if they are compatible with the footwear you will be traveling with.
Note that for trailrunners, you must have strap-on crampons that do not require a toe or heel welt.
For 3/4 shank mountain boots, semi-automatic or strap-on crampons are likely to be compatible.
My recommendation: Leopard
Glacier Harness
Compared to a rock climbing harness, a glacier harness looks like a string bikini. It is basically the skeleton of nylon in a rock harness without the padding. The padding is omitted for a few reasons: it is not meant to be weighted for long periods of time, it is designed for alpine environments where insulating layers serve as additional padding, and its function is to be lightweight and non-restrictive to walking, skiing, or carrying a backpack.
A harness paired with a rope, is a way to mitigate the hazard of falling off of or into the mountain.
Investing in a good glacier harness can save a decent amount of space in your pack, and also be more comfortable during the climb. From personal experience, wearing a bulkier harness with a pack, over long distances causes some uncomfortable pinching on the hips.
Climbing Helmet
Head protection is important for all the categories of hazards we face. The important thing to consider in a helmet for glacier travel, is that it fits your head well, is lightweight, and breathable… enough so that you feel comfortable wearing it uphill and down. Make sure it is in good shape (no dents, cracks, UIAA approved, and manufactured within the last 10 years).
Note that lighter helmets are usually more breathable and comfortable, but must be cared for, as the trade-off here is durability. Hard shell helmets are adequate for mountaineering, however they are less comfortable, heavier, and not as breathable.
Personal Items
When it comes to personal items on a light and fast mission, consider bringing only the necessities. Some items that are recommended are a headlamp and a personal first aid kit for things like blisters, chafing, etc. Trim down your toiletries to a bare minimum, and consider bringing only the amount of toothpaste you need for one night (maybe even preload it).
15-30 Liter Pack
This is where the rubber meets the road in terms of all the gear you intend to bring on a fast and light mission… It all leads up to the fated question, will it fit in the backpack? If your plan is to go fast and light, a 30 liter pack should be the goal. And with that said, there is some wiggle room. A well fitting 35 liter pack can also get the job done, but be conscientious not to just fill space because you have it.
A welcomed side benefit of attempting a fast packing mission, is that you have an opportunity to be very selective with what you choose to carry, and to strive to bring only the things that are necessary, and that you will use.
What I look for in a good pack: well-fitted to your torso, lightweight, easy access pocket to water, snacks, etc., and a comfortable hip belt that is also low profile for ease of movement.
The current pack options I’m debating bringing: Aerios 30, Firecrest 28, Fastpackher 30
For those of you just testing the waters of whether or not fastpacking or mountaineering is something you derive enjoyment from, this can seem like a lot of gear to acquire… and I agree. My best recommendation to cut down on costs is to reach out to friends or local businesses to see if there is an option for you to borrow or rent these gear items until you have a better idea of how you want to invest. There are so many different varieties for each gear item listed in this blog, and each one is specific to how you will use it, where you will use it, and when.
I hope this gear discussion has shed some light on the nuances of packing for a fastpacking trip, and helps you get in the right headspace for how to make decisions about gear. If you are gearing up for a trip with Aspire, I look forward to continuing to dial in our pack contents together, and fielding any other questions that arise.
Thank you for dedicating some time to preparing for your trip. We appreciate you, the mountain appreciates you, and hopefully, you will appreciate the effort you put into setting yourself up for success!
I am not sponsored by any gear company mentioned in this article, and so my recommendations are based solely on quality gear.
